I've covered a lot of ground in the last two weeks--about 40 hours in a train, in fact.
After spending two days in Kyoto (5:27-14:38), I met up with my friend Akari in Nara (12:30-13:15). We went to see Kasuga Taisha (Kasuga Shrine), which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I actually enjoyed the walk there most, 'cause it's lined in beautiful stone lanterns.
Then we went to the BIGGEST WOODEN BUILDING IN THE WORLD, Todai-ji (Todai Temple) which houses a 14.98 metre tall statue of the Buddha, which is remarkably enough NOT the biggest one in the world--or even the biggest in Japan. That was pretty cool.
Then I got to hang out with Akari, see the tea her family grows, drink homemade umeshu (plum liqueur that is one of my favourite things in the world), go out for rotating sushi, and THEN hop another train back to Kochi (15:45-23:00, because I sprung for an express).
Last Saturday I spent the day teaching, but still spent an hour on the train going to and from the class I teach for an English school in Noichi (12:19-12:48, 16:09-16:40).
Then on Sunday I headed to Hiroshima (10:45 - 19:00). I had time that evening to meet a random Italian girl at the hostel, and we went with her Japanese friend for Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki, whichi I failed to take a photo of.
I spent half of the next day at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and half trying to go to art museums that turned out to be closed because it was a Monday, finding time also to eat another Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki without taking a picture of it either.
On Tuesday I left Hiroshima and headed to Takamatsu (9:25-13:30) on the way to Kochi. In Takamatsu, I spent a few rainy hours exploring Ritsurin Park, which is really beautiful. I didn't eat Takamatsu's famous Sanuki udon (it has since been suggested to me that I go back and do so). Then I headed home to Kochi (16:48-22:04), in time to prepare for a meeting the next day in Noichi (13:45-14:19).
And I still have ONE DAY of unlimited train travel left on my ticket. I can go anywhere in Japan, but since I must use local trains only and am limited to one day, I am planning to stay on Shikoku. Where should I go?
31 August, 2008
27 August, 2008
Trivial Things I Like About Living In Japan Episode 3
The rain. (It's heavy. It makes a good sound. It's a breath of fresh air in the muggy heat of July and August. It feels good when you stick your head out over the edge of the balcony and get a little bit wet.)
24 August, 2008
Yosakoi Photo #4: The Music
Each Yosakoi team had music playing from a truck leading the group. Often there were live elements--usually singers, but in this case, a rad drummer.
PS: The last of the Yosakoi photos are on my flickr page now! Yay!
23 August, 2008
Kyoto Continued
On my second day in Kyoto, I started with the Kyoto Museum for World Peace at Ritsumeikan University. It's really well done and I learned a lot about WWII from a Japanese perspective. It was interesting to me that though the exhibit was really extensive, there was very little information about the Holocaust. I feel like if I were in a Canadian peace museum, the focus would be on the Holocaust over the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Confirm/deny?
One of the roles of peace museums in Japan is to talk publically about Japan's crimes in the past, at this exhibit did a very good job. Accompanied by a history of peace activism in Japan, it really felt like history portrayed in a balanced way. I wish we had more of that in Canada--a version of our history that portrays the bad alongside the good, falsely minimizing neither.
Anyway after that, I did stereotypical tourist things. I went to Kinkakuji, the temple with the golden pavilion (seriously, it's shiny!), and Ginkakuji, the temple with the silver one. (Unfortunately the silver one is a) not actually silver and b) under restoration right now... but it was find becuase there was TONS OF AWESOME MOSS there!) The two are particularly popular. Then I spent an hour or so wandering along the "Path of Philosophy," along the Biwa Canal, from Ginkakuji to Gion, the geisha district.
I was lucky enough to catch sight of an apprentice geisha, actually. I had been wandering around in the touristy area nearby for a while, and finally I stumbled onto the street where all of the tea houses actually are. I was getting my bearings and looking at all of the awesome old buildings, when a Japanese man spoke to me over my shoulder in accented English: "Look! Over there. A maiko." I looked, and indeed, even had time to snap a photo. (Although I felt kindof bad--the poor girl was being photographed by I don't know how many eager foreigners. I guess that's part of the job these days.)
Then I stopped at an Irish pub for G&T and headed back to the hostel. (I read somewhere about the Irish pub in Gion, and just didn't think my visit would be complete without going there.)
The next day, I woke up early to partake of the hostel breakfast (not so great as it turns out) and then went to see a beautiful and very old rock garden at Ryoanji Temple--laid out in the 1400s. After Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji, it was my third UNESCO World Heritage Site of the trip. Then I hopped on a train to Nara!
And I'll tell the rest of the story when I get back from my SECOND trip, to Hiroshima! (I'm leaving tomorrow morning!)
One of the roles of peace museums in Japan is to talk publically about Japan's crimes in the past, at this exhibit did a very good job. Accompanied by a history of peace activism in Japan, it really felt like history portrayed in a balanced way. I wish we had more of that in Canada--a version of our history that portrays the bad alongside the good, falsely minimizing neither.
Anyway after that, I did stereotypical tourist things. I went to Kinkakuji, the temple with the golden pavilion (seriously, it's shiny!), and Ginkakuji, the temple with the silver one. (Unfortunately the silver one is a) not actually silver and b) under restoration right now... but it was find becuase there was TONS OF AWESOME MOSS there!) The two are particularly popular. Then I spent an hour or so wandering along the "Path of Philosophy," along the Biwa Canal, from Ginkakuji to Gion, the geisha district.
I was lucky enough to catch sight of an apprentice geisha, actually. I had been wandering around in the touristy area nearby for a while, and finally I stumbled onto the street where all of the tea houses actually are. I was getting my bearings and looking at all of the awesome old buildings, when a Japanese man spoke to me over my shoulder in accented English: "Look! Over there. A maiko." I looked, and indeed, even had time to snap a photo. (Although I felt kindof bad--the poor girl was being photographed by I don't know how many eager foreigners. I guess that's part of the job these days.)
Then I stopped at an Irish pub for G&T and headed back to the hostel. (I read somewhere about the Irish pub in Gion, and just didn't think my visit would be complete without going there.)
The next day, I woke up early to partake of the hostel breakfast (not so great as it turns out) and then went to see a beautiful and very old rock garden at Ryoanji Temple--laid out in the 1400s. After Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji, it was my third UNESCO World Heritage Site of the trip. Then I hopped on a train to Nara!
And I'll tell the rest of the story when I get back from my SECOND trip, to Hiroshima! (I'm leaving tomorrow morning!)
19 August, 2008
Oooooops, I did it again....
So this morning I literally fell onto the train at exactly 5:27 AM, having run from a taxi just in time to catch it as the bell rang announcing its departure... I travelled on slow local trains for a long long time, eating only plain riceballs that I had forgotten in my rush to add salt to, and wearing only one sock... (no, seriously!)
and then about 9 hours later, I arrived in Kyoto only to find that the place I was supposed to stay, in a Buddhist temple, was in fact housing someone else. I wasn't that surprised--last night I realized that I had failed to SEND the email confirming my stay. But I had a hard time finding out. I sent an email when I realized--no reply. I showed up to check-in time and rang the bell--no reply. Finally I phoned. I heard the phone ring, and someone picked up. They really must have heard me ring. I guess not answering the bell means "no vacancy"? In any case, oops. I brought one backup hostel phone number and a sketched map.
And now here I am, having found the BEST HOSTEL I HAVE EVER BEEN IN, probably much better off. (Hence the unexpected intarweb access.) I did get lost on the way and end up in another taxi, but even counting the travel it's still cheaper here, and they also cook breakfast AND I have a four-person dorm to myself AND the girl at the check-in desk has a cute smile! (This is the first time for me to use my Hostelling International membership [thanks Aunt!] and I must say, I don't know if all HI hostels are like this, but I will certainly endeavor to use it more in future, and if you are ever in Kyoto, Utano Youth Hostel is rad.)
Today I dropped by the Emperor's palace for a quick visit, wandered around in downtown Kyoto for a while trying to find Gion (I think I got almost there, but I was hungry and it was getting late so I turned around and gave up), and had an interesting conversation with a sushi chef. Now that I'm not in Tosa-ben land, suddenly ｍｙlanguage skills have skyrocketed!
Certainly this is my favourite disaster so far, considering that I have actually saved money because of it!
and then about 9 hours later, I arrived in Kyoto only to find that the place I was supposed to stay, in a Buddhist temple, was in fact housing someone else. I wasn't that surprised--last night I realized that I had failed to SEND the email confirming my stay. But I had a hard time finding out. I sent an email when I realized--no reply. I showed up to check-in time and rang the bell--no reply. Finally I phoned. I heard the phone ring, and someone picked up. They really must have heard me ring. I guess not answering the bell means "no vacancy"? In any case, oops. I brought one backup hostel phone number and a sketched map.
And now here I am, having found the BEST HOSTEL I HAVE EVER BEEN IN, probably much better off. (Hence the unexpected intarweb access.) I did get lost on the way and end up in another taxi, but even counting the travel it's still cheaper here, and they also cook breakfast AND I have a four-person dorm to myself AND the girl at the check-in desk has a cute smile! (This is the first time for me to use my Hostelling International membership [thanks Aunt!] and I must say, I don't know if all HI hostels are like this, but I will certainly endeavor to use it more in future, and if you are ever in Kyoto, Utano Youth Hostel is rad.)
Today I dropped by the Emperor's palace for a quick visit, wandered around in downtown Kyoto for a while trying to find Gion (I think I got almost there, but I was hungry and it was getting late so I turned around and gave up), and had an interesting conversation with a sushi chef. Now that I'm not in Tosa-ben land, suddenly ｍｙlanguage skills have skyrocketed!
Certainly this is my favourite disaster so far, considering that I have actually saved money because of it!
Yosakoi Photo #3: THE HAIR
The third most amazing thing about Yosakoi is the CRAZY, CRAZY HAIR. (#1: rad dancing; #2: people volunteer to dance for two full days in 30 degree plus weather)
This hairstyle is not even one of the most intense I saw. I kid you not.
Anyway, I'm off to Kyoto and Nara for a few days. When I get back--yes, still MORE Yosakoi photos!
17 August, 2008
Yosakoi Photo #2: Famous Team
This is from last Sunday night at the Yosakoi festival. I was lucky enough to be sitting super close to the stage--literally ON the net fence that was the limit of where you were allowed to sit, in fact--if off to the side rather than in the centre. (Wouldn't that have been nice!) Anyway it was a great view.
Apparently this team is particularly famous; I saw them perform several times, and indeed, they are GOOD. Probably they've already started working on the routine for next year.
15 August, 2008
August 15
Today I went to Susaki City to have dinner at the home of two of my students, Mr. Picturebook and Most Advanced (ages 6 and 8 respectively). Their house turns out to be a newly-built Japanese/Westen cross (hardwood floors, sliding doors, Italiany balustrated terrace thing) basically on a cliff overlooking the pacific ocean. There's only one other house in sight, just beautifully forested rocky coastline. I chatted with Mr. P and MA's parents about Canada (what are the top selling points of Canada? I could only think of the amiable politics and general familiar comfortability) and Japan (what surprised me most about Japan? a mukade on my pillow), and watched the moon rise and the sun set over the ocean, wishing desperately that I had brought my camera.
Apparently the higher up hills you get, the cheaper land is in Japan. Opposite to Canada. In any case, I kindof wish I had a few billion yen (or whatever) to build a nice place in Susaki, too. The view would even make up for living in rural Japan.
Then I came home to my OTHER part-time job. My landlady has gone to Kyoto with her son and his family, leaving me in charge of twice-daily walks for a golden retriever whose name I can neither pronounce nor spell. His favourite hobbies are dragging me along the banks of Kagami River, and eating grass that other dogs have peed on (both forbidden passtimes). I'm to walk him for about half an hour twice a day, and usually return sweating from 75% of the pores on my body, almost in tears from the frustration of having to stay out so long in the heat (heat and onions are the only things that can make me cry) and dragging the dog away from pee-spots.
Two interesting sights tonight, though:
a very pregnant lady with a big dog off leash--near disaster!
and a super-tall white guy doing Tai Chi.
Of course the dog only speaks Japanese, so lately I've been screaming "SAIDO" in bad katakana a lot lately. I also had an interesting katakana moment when the dog's family took me on a demo walk. The six-year-old girl asked her father how to say something in English. "Urufu," he replied. And to me, "Natibu no hatsuon wa?" (What's the native pronunciation?) All I could think of was the Japanese band Urafurus, and I figured that probably wasn't it.
It turned out to be "wolf". Go figure.
(Coming this weekend: more Yosakoi!)
Apparently the higher up hills you get, the cheaper land is in Japan. Opposite to Canada. In any case, I kindof wish I had a few billion yen (or whatever) to build a nice place in Susaki, too. The view would even make up for living in rural Japan.
Then I came home to my OTHER part-time job. My landlady has gone to Kyoto with her son and his family, leaving me in charge of twice-daily walks for a golden retriever whose name I can neither pronounce nor spell. His favourite hobbies are dragging me along the banks of Kagami River, and eating grass that other dogs have peed on (both forbidden passtimes). I'm to walk him for about half an hour twice a day, and usually return sweating from 75% of the pores on my body, almost in tears from the frustration of having to stay out so long in the heat (heat and onions are the only things that can make me cry) and dragging the dog away from pee-spots.
Two interesting sights tonight, though:
a very pregnant lady with a big dog off leash--near disaster!
and a super-tall white guy doing Tai Chi.
Of course the dog only speaks Japanese, so lately I've been screaming "SAIDO" in bad katakana a lot lately. I also had an interesting katakana moment when the dog's family took me on a demo walk. The six-year-old girl asked her father how to say something in English. "Urufu," he replied. And to me, "Natibu no hatsuon wa?" (What's the native pronunciation?) All I could think of was the Japanese band Urafurus, and I figured that probably wasn't it.
It turned out to be "wolf". Go figure.
(Coming this weekend: more Yosakoi!)
14 August, 2008
Yosakoi Photo #1: DANCING BATMEN
The most surprising, and perhaps most amusing, part of the Yosakoi festival was the team of dancing batmen. I think there were about six batmen, a witch or two, and three clowns.
I really don't know why.
11 August, 2008
Yosakoi!!
This weekend in Kochi is the Yosakoi Festival. That means fabulous costumes, music, and amazing dancing!
Yesterday I stopped to watch on my way home from a teaching job, and randomly met a lone travelling German girl. So instead of watching for a few minutes and then making my way home, I watched with her until the end and then went out dancing. Then we met up today again, and spent the day swimming in the sea, looking at wax figures of samurai, watching Yosakoi, drinking shochu (hey, you gotta keep hydrated in this hot weather) and so on.
This is probably really boring to read, so I'll save the blabbing until I've uploaded my pictures. There's a lot to look forward to, including dancing Batmen. Yes, plural. And the festival isn't over yet, either!
Yesterday I stopped to watch on my way home from a teaching job, and randomly met a lone travelling German girl. So instead of watching for a few minutes and then making my way home, I watched with her until the end and then went out dancing. Then we met up today again, and spent the day swimming in the sea, looking at wax figures of samurai, watching Yosakoi, drinking shochu (hey, you gotta keep hydrated in this hot weather) and so on.
This is probably really boring to read, so I'll save the blabbing until I've uploaded my pictures. There's a lot to look forward to, including dancing Batmen. Yes, plural. And the festival isn't over yet, either!
06 August, 2008
Cool Bookish Thing
The other day I bumped into this awesome book site on the interwebs. You give it an author, and it shows you that author in a constellation of others, so you can see what people who read your favourite books are also reading. It's definitely surprising sometimes! I suspect it will be a good way to find new stuff to read, too!
http://www.literature-map.com/
Worth checking out for sure.
Oh yeah, and you can feed your preferences to the AI here. For example, right now Neal Stephenson and Roger Zelazny aren't connected. What! I intend to ammend this situation post-haste.
http://www.literature-map.com/
Worth checking out for sure.
Oh yeah, and you can feed your preferences to the AI here. For example, right now Neal Stephenson and Roger Zelazny aren't connected. What! I intend to ammend this situation post-haste.
04 August, 2008
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